The Family Vacation

I figured it was time for Elisa's abambo to put in his 2 cents about the vacation - although that word really doesn't describe the experience we all had. I'll admit that I was a bit hesitant at first about the whole trip, but even before the first evening we spent all together in Salima, it was pretty clear that I would have missed the opportunity of a lifetime. So, here are some highlights from my perspective...

• When your child decides to grow up and move 8,000 miles away, you just have to believe they can take care of themselves. You would not want to mess with Elisa (particularly if you're a curio vendor...)
• Living in a National Geographic spread is a little surreal. We WERE the stuff you see in the magazine.
• The fact that you can buy a cold Coke and cell phone minutes in the middle of nowhere was a bit disconcerting. But it does give a sense of how the middle of nowhere is connected to the rest of civilization.
• I think the last time I cleaned and cooked live fish was on a Boy Scout campout, but making a family dinner with ingredients we bought at her market and prepared on her paraffin stove while wearing a headlamp was a personal best for me...
• Mooching off of someone else's bucket list isn't so bad.
• Sistership is a pretty special relationship. Planning for Alix to go out the week before the parents was the right idea.
• I'll come clean about the "azungu trap" since it provided for some hysterical laughter behind my back. Because of the severe rains in the country, there are fairly wide and deep ditches along the edges of the roads in Lilongwe. This isn't anything you would see in a developed country since they are rather dangerous to pedestrians. So, during our last evening there, we walked to the restaurant - in the dark. Trying to assume the role of the patriarch, I walked behind the 3 women - especially since Elisabeth needed to lead the way. Well, I really don't see so well in the dark, and there's a lot of crazy drivers, and the thud they heard was me landing in the 24" deep ditch, with my head and arms outstretched on the road, awaiting the oncoming traffic. I took my time cleaning off the blood in the men's room at dinner so they had some time to compose themselves. Naturally they all wanted to hold my hand on the walk back.
• Running isn't practical in Malawi or Zambia - something about being mistaken as "dinner" put a damper on the training. I got over that...
• It was amazing to see how far a few dollars will go with the right kind of direction. The AYID community center Elisabeth is helping to get built in Kanyangale was incredible. It's the first building in this little fishing village on Lake Malawi to have an "iron roof". Seeing how the village has come together to build the structure, and to meet the villagers and their chief - and be honored quests was pretty special. And now we have the "Benoit Family Library" - a room in the community center for this village that has no school. The building is paid for, but we donated some money to furnish the library. And then I started thinking that others might want to make a small contribution to endear themselves to the family library. Perhaps a trip to Lilongwe to get books from the free national library system ($5)? Small table ($10)? Lifetime library cards for 10 people ($5)? Paper/supplies ($10)? Let Kathy or myself know if you're interested in supporting the cause.
• And aside from the horrendous air travel (Ethiopian Air is more like a catering company with some salvaged planes...) it really was the ultimate family trip. My love to all...

An Outside Perspective

Mid-vacation Elisabeth said "Alix, you should make a guest entry in my blog. It would give an outside perspective on my life in Africa." At the time this task did not seem to be too difficult. Sure, there are plenty of things to write about and angles to take, but to really sum up the blip in time that was my holiday is near impossible. So, in an effort to pass on a little of my experience here is a taste of what I learned, what I saw, what I did, and what I thought:

• learning to hitchhike, as a standard mode of transport
• I now have an understanding of Malawian transport, in all its glory. Mini buses, AXA buses, hitches... I missed bicycle taxi's, but I think I got a decent education
• learning to be patient with Malawian transport- eventually the mini bus will go, you just have to wait and standing on sack of maize for 6 hours from Elisabeth's site to Khande Beach really isn't that bad. Oh, and if the sheep under your seat on the mini bus kicks, just lift your legs.
• Walking across "the scary bridge" in the Lilongwe market is the best way to go clothes shopping
• There is nothing like a fresh mango or pineapple, even if it is sold to you at an azungu price
• The children are well loved and taken care of
• The sense of community in the villages is remarkable, there are very few homeless people and it seemed as though everyone takes care of everyone.
• I have never heard the phrase "you are most welcome" and "feel free" more, but they were always said with complete sincerity. Still, I always wanted to ask "feel free to do what?"
• When white people multiply in a remote village you are bound to get looks.
• I still have not figured out a use for all of the chitenjes (the colorful cloth the women wear) I bought
• Amayi (mothers) hands are stronger and tougher then an ove-glove, no joke. And their backs and heads and well... they are just strong women
• there are so many people that are willing to work hard, but the bureaucracy and dependence on others prevents a lot from getting done
• only in Malawi will you wake up with a monkey on your porch, brought to you by the neighbors
• Azungu traps (giant ditches on the side of the roads) are dangerous.
• adding too much water-guard to water will make you sicker than just drinking water out of the borehole- I learned that one the hard way.
• I am not sure how Elisabeth handles the little things all the time, like: sexism, dependency issues, her brothers, preventable accidents, lack of funding for the important things (water, electricity for the school), bugs, transportation, living somewhere for over a year and still there are people that beg her for things. Really, she lives there too! She doesn't have running water or electricity either, and I am pretty sure asking for a msweetie or pencil will not help you out in the long run.
• cold cokes and fantas can and will revive you even in the muggiest of weather
• Elisa is one tough cookie
• Malawians often use "L" and "R" interchangeably, making some funny words, like the volunteer Russell who is called Lusser, or in the case of the Neil Diamond classic "Sweet Calorine"
• yes, I have heard a band of Rastas sing "Sweet Calorine" at an Italian restaurant followed by the Beatles "Ret it Be"
• The lodge in Zambia had a pet squirrel, but I think I am the only in the family that thought that it was a good idea
• Sometimes when Elisabeth laughs really hard she sounds a little like a hippo....
• I was a little worried about such a long family vacation because we haven't spent that amount of time together in consecutive days in, well, ever.... but, everything turned out grand. No, really it was fantastic. I don't know why, but I will venture to guess it has something to do with months of mental preparation Elisabeth put us through
• I don't like nsima, I don't care how good the relish is, the nsima is yucky.
• That isn't fair- it doesn't really have a taste but you smack it around in your mouth and it does nothing but gum up and never go down.
• I could never finish a plate a of food, no matter how hungry I was. I am pretty sure 5 cups of cooked rice is more than one serving, but my inability to finish will prevent me from being a true Malawian.
• purchasing food at a restaurant (note: the term "restaurant" is used VERY loosely, really it is someplace that *may* serve food at some time) is often a timely ordeal. Don't wait until you are really hungry in case they take an hour or three. And have a back up in case they don't have what you want or don't feel like cooking it
• cooking over hot coals is rewarding
• you can bake over the coals, I managed a chocolate cake, but other talented volunteers created cinnamon rolls, mango crisp, and banana bread

So, there it is- a general overview of some of that I learned. If I think of other really important things I will add on, but for now this is it. There is no way to put into words all that I will take away from this adventure, but there is no doubt that it will stay with me forever. I want to thank all of the volunteers I met, you are awesome. Keep being rockstars. Elisabeth, you are the greatest "man-woman" sister in the world and I am super proud of all you are doing. I know you question the impact you are making, but you are showing villages that with hard work and follow through things can get done.

Keep an eye out for an outside perspective Abambo (daddy) version, coming soon...

Alix

(Alice, little Elisa)

National Lampoon has nothing on the Benoits...

The family came to Malawi, my sister for three weeks and my parents for two. It was perfect. Perfect timing, a perfect vacation, I was pretty bummed dropping them off at the airport yesterday. Lucky for them they were able to extend their trip courtesy of Ethiopian Airlines--maybe they can tell you about that later in their guest blogs. : )

The following is a brief summary of their adventures kuno ku Malawi.

1) My sister arrives! She and I are going to have a 'peace corps' experience, taking public transportation, and doing things the Peace Corps way. I discover it is much more fun to ride in the back of a truck with your sister.

2) We visit my house. Alix meets the neighbors, all of them. She has passed the neighbor test and the boys deem her cool enough for a dance party. Positives: We make a delicious taco dinner with guacamole and baked a chocolate cake for dessert (on coals). Negatives: We make a mouse trap that fails two nights in a row.

3) We travel north to visit a friend's house for Christmas. Alix gets the full transport experience as we stand on bags of maize with 120 of our closer friends for 5 hours to Khande.

4) Christmas as Russell's house with 13 other friends. Christmas was spent eating cinnamon rolls (also made on coals), swimming in the lake, and enjoying some really terrible Christmas music. Traditional? No. Memorable? Absolutely.

5) The day after Christmas we travel back to my site via a hitch that gets a flat tire and a mini bus whereby I am attacked by a sheep traveling under my seat.

6) We pick up our parents. And our car. Life is good.

7) The first night is spent at Senga Bay at a beautiful resort with a pool and air conditioning and room service. Clearly, I have never been here before, but I can get used to this life.

8) We travel to my site. We buy fish, my dad cooks. Christmas presents fall from my parent's suitcases (enough macaroni and cheese and hummus mix to last a long long time).

9) The school prepares a lunch for my family. Lunches in Malawi are always awkward events with lots of speeches and weird silences. My headteacher provides comic relief with his dramatic way with words as he says about my arrival: "when we found out we were receiving a women we were paralyzed with fear, but Elisa has proven herself to be a "woman-man." Gee, thanks.

10) The next day we go to Kanyangale to visit AYID's building. The group welcomes us with songs and dances. They give my parents the best hats in the whole world and name the library after us.

11) Two nights at my house proves to be enough. We spend the next morning working on the map project at school and then head to the Safari lodge in Nkhotakota for a great meal on the lake and a comfortable chalet.

12) On the way to Monkey Bay we stop at Mua Mission to visit the cultural center and learn about different kinds of umm...masks.

13) New Years Eve. Staying a 'rustic lodge' without electricity in Monkey Bay makes it difficult to stay awake through the new year.

14) We travel to Cape Maclear to try and beg for a place to sleep. One night at the 'rustic lodge' was enough. We happen upon a little lodge which is about an hour ferry boat ride away-and so begins our trip to paradise.

15) Mumbo Island. Paradise. Beautiful tents set up like tree forts fit a maximum of 14 people on the island. We spend the afternoon kayaking and swimming then take the boat out for a sundowner. Delicious food, beautiful scenery, happy 2011 to us.

16) Travel to Lilongwe. Safari the next day!

17) SAFARI in ZAMBIA! We saw tons of giraffe, zebras, elephants, birds, hippos, crocodiles, baboons, monkeys, and leopards (yes, plural and one about 10 feet away), and lions. The best part was driving in the crazy safari mobile flying through the bush tracking the leopard at night-we all had the most ridiculous smiles on our faces as we were flying off the seats. More delicious food, more cool people, bucket list items being checked off. sweet.

18) Back to Malawi. Time to go home. I couldn't have asked for a better vacation (I hope my family would say the same). I feel refreshed and rejuvenated and full of delicious food. Thank you family.

happy 2011 to you!
loads of love,
elisabeth