Saturday, May 15, 2010

The Hardest Days

Time has a strange way of moving in Malawi. Some days seem to crawl on forever, while blocks of time come and go with the blink of an eye. It is an odd paradox of feeling like I will be here forever, while often worrying if I can be effective in two short years. Recently, the days have been flying by without a moment to catch my breath but things came to a standstill this weekend and truth be told it was one of the hardest weekends I have had thus far.

I will preface this weekend’s events with the fact that last week was spent typing exams. Lots and lots and lots of exams—full of ridiculous questions and complicated diagrams—you can have a look at my three favorite questions found in the Social and Development Studies Exam at the end of this blog for your enjoyment. I don’t really mind typing exams, it is just extremely tedious and boring and I was trying to do too much. (as per usual)

Saturday was a bust. I was supposed to have a gender development workshop which was initially scheduled for a different location. I changed the location at the last workshop, each school was represented and wrote it down and confirmed the location change. When I arrived at my school a little before 9 I wasn’t really surprised to not see any of the other teachers. But then it was 10 and then 10:30 and no one called or texted so I went to find my headteacher who had sent our teacher to the initial location for the workshop. I felt terrible for changing the location and the miscommunication, but I was mostly bummed that no inquired about my whereabouts in an effort to hold the workshop.

Lucky for me I have my brothers. I have never had a dog but sometimes I think coming home to them is like coming home to dogs. (in the most loving sense) They can tell if I have had a good day (that is when they ask for sweeties or pencils) or a bad day (that is when they suggest a dance party and color with me). The point is that they can always tell what kind of a mood I am in and know how to respond. (well, maybe it is the fact that I give them pencils and sweeties and the occasional cup of cooking oil but what are neighbors for?) Anyway, we had a grand dance party in my house and I believe you would be hard pressed to find a person who could be in a bad mood jumping around to the Jackson 5.

Sunday morning I found out a Form 2 student from my school died. My neighbor told me it was Malaria (Malawians think everything is Malaria-thus part of the problem is resistance to the treatments because they take Coartem (malaria medication) for everything but that is another story). I found out from other teachers that it was a rib injury. Precious Mbale (the student) was a football player and football is no joke in Malawi. I often cringe watching them play because few students wear shoes or shin guards or any of the other protective sportswear my overly maternal instincts deem necessary for contact sports. Anyway, he had been complaining about his rib cage and while I am not a doctor he was coughing blood and that seems like a sign of a punctured lung or internal bleeding or something painful. But I think they gave him malaria medication. He passed early Sunday morning. I had yet to attend a funeral in Malawi and I hope to not have to attend many more. The men and women are divided into different areas. The women first must visit one area to deliver the flour and fire wood to the family, their name is checked off a list and they can move to the prayer area. There are prayers and songs and everyone from the village was there, in many ways it was so beautiful and moving. Amongst all of these beautiful sounds there is the hammering and sawing of the men building the coffin. It seemed like such a strange contradiction between the prayers of a safe journey to heaven meshed with the sounds of building what seemed like a permanent, final resting place. After some time the chief speaks and finally the community is allowed to mourn and cry. My students who are normally so bubbly and full of life looked so defeated and sad. The boys from school carried Precious in his coffin to the road to an ox-cart that would take him away to be buried. There are no grief counselors for the students, life goes on at Mkaika, but life was taken away too soon from such a beautiful person.

Peace Corps tries to prepare you for funerals and death, we had training on what to wear and how to act, but this was so real. It made me miss my friend Grant who passed this time last year, though I know he is an angel to SO many people now. It reminded me to tell you that I love you and I appreciate you. It reminded me that life really is Precious.


Loads of love,
elisabeth





On a lighter note, here are some of the ridiculous test questions I have spent way too long typing. Enjoy.

1) All the these are gender roles for women except:
a. Taking care of children at home
b. Cooking for the family
c. Taking care of sick people
d. Digging graves at funerals is for husbands

2) What rights do women have according to Malawian constitution?
i. Right to inherit property
ii. Right to polygamous family
iii. Right to best education
iv. Right to be beaten by their husband
a. I, II, and III
b. I and III
c. II and IV
d. III and IV

3) What are functions and duties of the state:
i. Homicide
ii. Nutrition
iii. Health
iv. Killing political opponents
a. I and II
b. II and III
c. III and IV
d. I and IV

Monday, May 3, 2010

A Birthday in Malawi

I turned 26 this year. Sometimes that feels really old; sometimes I feel like I have the rest of my life in front of me. I am not really sure how I feel about being 26--but I can say I had a really wonderful birthday. Meg made the most delicious cake in a mud oven (yeah, she is that amazing), Alexis led a yoga session on the beach, we swam and tried to run, and ate some more cake, we crammed lots of people in a room meant for 5 and it was wonderful. So, in honor of my 26th birthday I have compiled a list of 26 things I have learned this year and bits of wisdom I have tried to embrace.



1) Life really is a journey--not just on t-shirts and coffee mugs, seriously it is

2) You can fit 23 people, 6 chickens, 2 goats, 7 bags of maize, and countless pieces of luggage in a mini-bus meant for 12 people--it is possible
3) Food can typically* last overnight
4) Expiration dates are mere suggestions for deadlines
5)Who you are as a person is far more important than what you do
6) Patience-I have learned a whole lot of patience. Patience for sitting in a minibus for 4 hours to travel 70km, patience for my students to critically think about anything, patience for Malawi to start to rely on its own abilities, and patience for myself to be wherever I am
7) Frogs are not smart. (this is not meant to be offensive to frog lovers-I just have a lot of frogs living in my house and they are dumb animals)
8) The people that matter don't mind and the people who mind don't matter
9) My family is amazing.
10) I have incredible friends in Malawi and America and those friends make all the difference.
11) In the big scheme of life 2 years is not that long
12)How to carry 20L of water on my head
13) How to boil and egg and cook rice (yes, I didn't know how to do either before...no excuses, just embarrassment)
14) When you try to explain Santa Clause, the Easter Bunny, and the tooth fairy to Malawians you end up sounding very foolish
15)You should always be wearing an 'adventure sandal'-you never know when an adventure might arise so you should always be prepared
16) Being self-sufficient is satisfying, but not as satisfying as eating in a really good restaurant and being pampered (just a little bit : ) )
17) How to sew (sort of) and knit (kind of)
18) Fanta is an invaluable teaching tool
19) how to start a decent cooking fire
20) How to make a compost pile and garden
21) How to diagnose malaria, giardia, shistos, dysentery and a variety of other pleasant ailments
22) In chichewa 'want' and 'need' is the same word: kufuna. More languages should celebrate the similarities
23) I have learned to sit and be still. Some people (my mom) might find this hard to believe, but I really can just sit and be for a long time. A big change from my former super scheduled life (at a moment I was working with 5 minute blocks of time). Most Malawians tell time by the sun. Meetings are scheduled by talking to a person and them saying "when the sun is somewhere over there we will meet." (Picture a person pointing an ambiguous place in the sky) Do you think this would work in America?
24) In Malawi it is a compliment to be told you are fat. My neighbor tells me I am fat everyday. (literally, I come home from school and say hello and she says "Elisa-so fat in malawi! fat, fat, fat!) At first it was frustrating so I tried to compromise and explained the word 'medium' so we decided I could be medium. That lasted about a week, now I am trying to embrace the 'compliment' of being fat.
25) I really like doing things the hard way. It always makes for a better story in the end.
26) I am so blessed and lucky.
*You should not try this at home if a refrigerator is available
Thank you all for the sweet messages, phone calls, letters, and thoughts. I appreciate them all SO much. I love and miss you all.
loads of love,
elisabeth

Wednesday, April 21, 2010

The Secret to Teacher Trainings is...Fanta?

I think I have discovered the secret to teacher success kuno ku Malawi. (As far as my workshops are concerned) It is not the venue, time of day, day of week, participating schools and/or teachers. Nope, success is found with Fantas, biscuits, and stickers.

In Malawi, it is expected to give teachers allowances for workshops. That is to say, they get a little bonus for missing school. Plus a Fanta. I don't agree with allowances (mostly, I am not willing to pay people out of my pocket to come to my workshop). Therefore, my workshops have been allowance and Fanta free. This Saturday, (yes-I even made it on a Saturday! Most workshops are during the week meaning the teacher misses all their classes and they haven't exactly developed the substitute teaching system in Malawi) I was so excited I had 13 participants (up from 6 last time) I succumbed to the Fanta pressure and provided cookies and drinks. This was the best thing I could have ever done. At first, just a morning spent with Elisa talking about school stuff. Providing a Fanta elevated the session to a legitimate workshop. Oh, and the stickers--I passed out sticker pages for good answers and as a review/wrap up at the end of the workshop. We had talked about positive reinforcement and stickers aren't wildy available in my village so I was hoping they would take them back to their schools to use them for excellent student work. Instead, they bedazzled their cell phones with 'good luck' and 'A for effort' stickers.

On a separate note, I think it is hilarious and ironic I am teaching a classroom management workshop. I guess all those workshops from Houston came in handy....What is that saying, those that can't do, teach?

p.s. for more Malawi reading check out alexisinmalawi.blogspot.com

Friday, April 9, 2010

Climbing Every Mountain

I have never been one to turn down an adventure. When the opportunity to climb Mt. Mulanje presented itself, I was not about to say no. However, next time a mountain climbing opportunity unfolds before me I will do a little research into what I am getting myself into...

Mt. Mulanje is the third tallest mountain in Africa. You have to have a guide and apparently they have not been informed of the beauty of switchbacks. We literally climbed on all fours up the mountain. This in itself would have been difficult but our group was too frugal to get a porter so we carried our packs. Again, this would have been totally manageable, but I was carrying WAY too much stuff. (Clothes and work for Lilongwe, books, lots of food, water...) The first day was six hours up. On all fours, climbing up rocky steps and stairs, straight up. We made it the hut, patted ourselves on the backs for a job well done, and made a delicious dinner. We heard the first day was the hardest so we were pleased with our efforts and excited for the next day. Little did we know....

Day Two: We climbed for another 3 hours to the next hut. We were told we needed to move quickly if we wanted to summit. We threw our bags down and were ready to go. It didn't take more than 5 minutes to realize the first day had nothing on summiting this crazy mountain. The positive was that we didn't have our super heavy packs, the negatives were that I am really scared of heights and we were bouldering (jumping from rock to rock) and scrambling up the side of a mountain. We were about 40 minutes from the top and then it started raining. So now we were scrambling on wet rocks on the side of a mountain. Good idea? Bad idea? ...bad idea. I don't like quiting things. In fact, I hate quiting things. But I quite. Alexis and I huddled together while the rest of the group scrambled to the top. We had some thoughts on freezing on the side of a mountain and tried to laugh off the ridiculousness of the situation. But it was pretty scary. The rest of the group found us and we proceeded to slide down the side of the mountain. Yes, slide. On our bums, crabwalking, slipping, planning which piece of vegetation was going to stop a slide off the mountain. By the end we had 5 ripped pants (some of us ripped through to the second layer and were literally sliding down on their bums), 1 lost camera, 12 ripped up hands, cuts, bruises, and very wobbly muscles. Luckily, we made it off the really slippery part before it got dark. Some of us had headlamps and were doing our best to guide each other down but with very little muscle control, darkness, wetness, and exhaustion it wasn't very pretty. After what seemed like hours (it did take us 4 hours to get down) we saw the hut. I have never seen such a beautiful building in my life. It was a glorious sight.

Going down the mountain: Should be easy, right? no. At first it was funny because none of us had any leg muscle control from the crazy day before--so in a span of about 10 minutes each of us fell. But then we had to keep going...and going...and going...Down the slippery, muddy staircases we climbed up 2 days prior. Going up was tough, going down was a pain in the butt. (literally-my tailbone has never been so bruised)--we forded rivers with rocks and logs, we climbed up and down until it was all I could do to put one foot in front of the other. But we made it. 7 hours later we were at the bottom. The best part of being at the bottom of the mountain is that there is a pizza place. We ate the best pizza I have ever eaten (well, ever eaten in Malawi) and felt/looked like we had just been through a war.

Post Mulanje: Walking is a bit of a struggle. Many of our feet are still swollen and our hands are ripped. But we did it. It was awesome. And now we have some crazy stories.

I am headed back to site today and get to meet my new environment neighbor tomorrow! I hope they will be as awesome as Sarah and Austin (that is a tough task : ) ) But it is back to site and back to work.

loads of love,
elisabeth

Friday, April 2, 2010

Just a little update....

Happy Easter! I thought it time for an overall update on life in Malawi...so here goes:

Mkaika CDSS
Teaching is going....I really enjoy the students but the school year is so short and there are breaks every week it seems so it is difficult to be consistent. The syllabus is also ridiculous. The students know very minimal English but according to the objectives it is necessary they learn about gerunds, appositives, participles, dangling modifiers, and other less than relevant information. Maybe this stuff is important, but I have gotten through almost 26 years of life without knowing (or caring) and feel like there is other more important information to teach. For example, the use of periods and capitalization and the meaning of words like super, wonderful, and awesome.

A.Y.I.D.
I love this youth group. They took about two weeks to raise the equivalent of $10 US to sell dried fruit. They really want to build a youth center with a library so we are trying to sell fruit to raise capital to buy soap making materials. They are so determined and ambitious--it is definitely refreshing work.

Workshops
Hmm. I am currently taking my lesson planning workshop on tour. Sometimes it goes well, sometimes the teachers seem more confused than when they entered the room. It is kind of like teaching any class I suppose. I am planning a classroom management workshop (the irony of this is hilarious because I attended SO many classroom management workshops in Houston) and a female empowerment workshop in May.

Camp Sky
We have a location (Kasungu Teacher Training College) and a date (August 17-27). This was way more difficult than it sounds due to transportation (I have a bike), exam schedules (all the schools are testing the Form 4s so we couldn't use the nice government schools they have used in the past), and a variety of other crazy things. But...the applications are out! We just have to plan the curriculum and schedule speakers, etc but it is slowly coming together.

Life
Life is good. I am on my way to Climb Mt. Mulanje for Easter break and am totally jazzed about this adventure. I also now have a cell phone with Internet--a nicer phone than I had in America! And it costs less for me to respond to an email than to text America. So, you should email. I'll write back. : )

I think that is all from Malawi...for now. I miss you all and hope to hear from you soon!

loads of love,
elisabeth

Friday, March 26, 2010

This is Africa (cont...)

T.I.A. Moments Continued….

The other day I decided to walk to A.Y.I.D. (the youth group I am working with). Normally I ride my back, but I felt like going for a walk. A.Y.I.D. is in a small fishing village on the lake so fishermen are going in and out constantly on their bicycles. One offered me a ride, I was still pretty far away and the charm of my long walk had long since worn off. I jumped on the rack on the back of his bike and off we went faster than normal but I thought he was just in a hurry to get to the fish. The path started sloping down and we started going even faster…..I see my fishermen motion to his friends to stop and I become slightly concerned. My fishermen starts riding off the path into the bushes, trees, and brush attemping to slow down. I jump off and he gets the bike under control. He then apologies “ sorry madam, I am just missing these”—he points to the brakes.



#2
There are certain heartbreak things I have (sadly) gotten used to—the babies with bloated bellies and orange hair from malnutrition, the wailing nearly every other night announcing yet another funeral, men hobbling with the aid of a stick to walk on their severely twisted leg, teachers justifying AIDS as a form of population control…etc. But the other day my heart hurt because I realized how little control I have over anything. I was on my way to Nkhotakota when an open bed truck flew past-in the back without a guard rail was a lady lying on a green plastic mattress and an IV attached to the cab. For as beautiful as this country is, sometimes it just breaks my heart.

Tuesday, March 16, 2010

Paradise

If you ever join the Peace Corps it is certainly an added bonus to be in a beautiful beautiful country. Two weeks ago Jesi, Alexis, Will and I traveled north during the school holiday to visit Will's site and hike to Livingstonia. We attempted to make it to Will's site on one day but our bus ran out of gas and Jesi's bus (she was coming from Nkhotakota) got stuck in the mud. We camped that night in Muzuzu which also means that had cheeseburgers at the hostel. : ) We made it to Will's site Wednesday afternoon and quickly realized he lives in paradise. He is right on the lake so we got to swim and ate a giant feast at his head teacher's house. Thursday morning we started early (in the rain) with the walk from Will's house to the bottom of the road/trail. It is a 15k hike uphill with over 21 switchbacks and absolutely stunning. We didn't really have plans to stay anywhere (thus is the whimsical schedule (or lack thereof) of traveling in Malawi) but ended up at the Lukwe Permaculture Camp. After a long day of hiking in the rain it seemed totally justifiable to cram into a chalet and enjoy a little vacation. We explored their incredible gardens (they grow everything from coffee, maize, peppers, beans, bananas, etc) and then played in a giant waterfall. We also had the most delicious food (probably because everything comes from the garden). We were the only people there and it was probably one of my favorite nights in Malawi thus far.

Friday morning we wandered around Livingstonia (historically, a really important spot in Malawi but not really much to do...at all) and then found transport down the mountain. We had dinner a the headteachers house where I had my first experience with condolay. Condolay is nsima made from cassava...so think mashed cassava past = the gluiest, thickest substance I have ever eaten. They have to saw it apart, literally. Malawians love it because they "do not feel hunger" after eating. I didn't feel hunger either, I just felt like I had eaten cotton balls with elmers glue.

Saturday Jesi, Alexis, and I attempted to make our way home. It started well and we arrived in Muzuzu around 9:45, plenty of time to make it home. Due to finances (read: we have no money) the most cost effective method of transport is hitching. So we tried...for three hours...in the rain, pushing back our must leave time little by little. Finally, we realized we might have better luck in Nkhata Bay so we begrudgingly paid for transport. Nkhata Bay was equally problematic. We waited another four hours and then remembered something about difficulty traveling down the lakeshore road in the middle of rainy season due to bridges washing out and impassable muddy roads. whoops. Luckily, one of the girls in our group lived about 30k south of Nkhata Bat so we again paid our way to Chinteche. Sunday morning exhausted, dirty, and ready to go home we accepted the fact we have to pay for a bus. I couldn't remember the last time I bathed and after spending the previous nights in a tent, sharing a double bed with 2 other girls, and 3 nights on the floor, my foam mattress and bucket bath never looked so good.

Positives Upon Arrival
* My brothers were waiting for me at the bus depot!
* People remembered me! (I was a little nervous after being gone for 2 weeks)
*I realized I was excited about coming home.
* Everything was still in my house

Not as positive...
*EVERYTHING in my house was moldy. Clothes, tables, dishes, everything. 4 hours of laundry and lots of mopping and scrubbing I think it is okay now..


Back to reality.....
After galavanting across Malawi I, very quickly, was reminded that yes I live in a village in Africa. Last Monday I went to Gertrude's house to meet with her and the Post Test group (the people living with HIV/AIDS). On the way I nearly rode my bike over a crazy green snake. I am not, nor will I ever be a fan of snakes. I am convinced it was a green mamba and like to count this as a brush with death. (maybe that is dramatic, but drama is necessary when dealing with snake encounters) Anyway, Gertrude wasn't there but some of the other ladies were around and it wasn't until after serving me Palla (porridge) that they asked why I was there...feeling kind of silly because I ate their palla and there wasn't really a meeting I just said I would help with the chickens. So we walked into the corral and they handed me a chicken and showed me how to clean its feet (toes? talons? whatever chickens walk on) Yes, I picked chicken poo off of chicken feet. For an hour. T.I.A.


loads of love,
elisabeth