In Which We Discover Paradise

To be sure, Paradise looks different for every person. Some people prefer fancy places or rural landscapes or maybe even a Sunday morning with pancakes. Last weekend I found my paradise in Ruarwe.


To be clear, Ruarwe is remote. So remote that you can only get there via a 3 day hike or by boat. I am of the opinion that the more difficult something is to attain, the sweeter the success at the end. With the term break at our disposal Jesi, Twila, Drea and I set off on a 3 day adventure. With high spirits and fancy hiking boots (minus Drea in her Snooks) we began.


One of the challenges of hiking to Ruarwe is that you are never quite sure where you in relation to where you need to be. As I have mentioned before Malawians are not known for their precise directions, they mostly just point towards a random direction saying "ahh, it is just near" or "you are just very close." We were unsure how far to walk each day, but we marched along knowing somehow in Malawi everything always magically works out.


At our first lunch break we all observed the lack of bore holes for water. The villages in this region are so remote that NGOs and Government agencies have done very little in regards to development. Why would you need a bore hold for water when you live on the lake? So with iodine tables and a prayer I drank the lake water...



Anyway, as we walked from village we chatted with people along the way. One man noted, as we were preparing to move on, that I "was meant to be a soldier, not a teacher." Probably true...but it's just that whole war thing....



I digress. The first night, upon recommendation, we stopped at a primary school with a perfectly symmetrical mango tree. We spent the afternoon swimming and cooking with the women. It was glorious.



The next day was more of the same but harder. The trail became narrow and steep and rocky. We stopped for a mid morning swim convinced we were not TOO far away. After walking quite a distance (and stopping for lunch) I realized my camera was missing. In a frantic burst of frustrated energy I threw my back down and started running back along the trail. A pack of kids soon followed when, about 30 minutes later, another boy started chasing us proudly swinging my camera in the air. He found it under a rock, I would have NEVER seen. I think my giant hug might have scared him but we all walked back to Twila, Jesi, and Drea laughing and smiling. I rewarded him with some American trail mix and granola bars and the loose change in my pocket. Oh, and we got to take lots of photos together.



The second night we found a school to sleep in, made friends who helped us cook and considered ourselves ready for paradise.

We were told we would arrive in Ruarwe anywhere between 10am and 2pm, but we were convinced we would have a full day in Ruarwe-it would just be a short morning trek. We walked and walked and walked, around bends, up hills, down hills-all of us loosing steam. We were low on food, water, and energy. Around 3pm we rounded the final corner and saw the lodge waiting for us-the most beautiful thing we had seen in a while.

The following days were spent swimming, jumping off tall things, eating delicious food, reading, chatting, and enjoying. We took the Illala- the big ship that goes up and down the lake out on Monday morning to Nkhata Bay refreshed and content. Tuesday was back to site and reality, being thankful to have found paradise.

Oh, the best part-the butterflies guiding our way along the entire path. Thank you Sarah for helping us find our way.


loads of love,
e

Shine bright firefly, shine bright

I hope everyone has a friend like Sarah. Someone who knows all the moves to the Thriller dance, can make you laugh until you have tears running down your face, who will meet you for coffee or frozen yogurt, who will pray for you, who will listen, guide, teach, inspire, who, after meeting them makes you want to become a better person. Someone who will help plan a surprise birthday party for you, who always suggests the perfect book, who will remind you that you are worthy of good things and to live intentionally.

Sarah, you were one of the brightest lights in my time in Houston, go shine your bright light on the world from Heaven.

Life is eternal, and love is immortal,
and death is only a horizon;
and a horizon is nothing save the limit of our sight.
-rossiter worthington raymond

Please keep Eric and her family in your thoughts, and be thankful because we now have an amazing angel in Heaven.

much love,
e

www.sarahchidgey.blogspot.com

The Death of a Chicken and Other Things

It has been a while since my last update, my apologies. Life has been trucking along as it does in Malawi- days can seem to take lifetimes, but somehow the weeks and months fly by.

The week after my family left we had our mid-service training, it was the last time I will be in Dedza (a little bittersweet, but mostly sweet). Of course it is always nice spending time with my group, but I am ready move on. I think.

The past weeks have been full of lesson plans, map drawing, weekend trips, library training, and a chicken killing. Let me explain...

After my family left I decided I wanted to travel and visit people on the weekend, I have done just that. I put in my monday-friday work and then go to beautiful places on the weekend, it is a nice balance. School has been going really well, I can see improvements in my students English both in writing and speaking. Marking exams and compositions can be absurdly frustrating (on any continent!), but I do think they are learning...something. We have also been working on the world map project, the map we started with family. It is slow going but the kids are having so much fun, and they finally know where Malawi is!

We had our library training last week for Active Youth in Development. Since the death of our contractor progress has been slow. So, we came up with a new plan and should be done my the middle of March. Yesterday I was able to register the group with the National Library Service so they can pick up books all year long. I was able to fill up two HUGE boxes of books (I hadn't been in a library in too long, the people working thought I was nuts because I was so excited about all of the new books!).

Oh, and the chicken. Last week I went to visit John's family. John is the student my Aunt is helping with school fees, but I had yet to meet his family. So a couple of students and I went over to their house and had some awkward conversation and they gave me a chicken. We walked back to my house where I gave it to my neighbor and asked if she could keep it for the following week...well, something got lost in communication and she brought out the chicken to give to her nephew to kill. When in Rome, right? So I killed the chicken. He held it down on the ground and yours truly cut its neck off. And then we had chicken and rice for lunch.

I have been accepted into graduate school so I can come home at the end of June! This means the days in Malawi are numbered, somewhere between a precious few and an overwhelming too many.

Miss you all!

loads of love,
elisabeth

The Family Vacation

I figured it was time for Elisa's abambo to put in his 2 cents about the vacation - although that word really doesn't describe the experience we all had. I'll admit that I was a bit hesitant at first about the whole trip, but even before the first evening we spent all together in Salima, it was pretty clear that I would have missed the opportunity of a lifetime. So, here are some highlights from my perspective...

• When your child decides to grow up and move 8,000 miles away, you just have to believe they can take care of themselves. You would not want to mess with Elisa (particularly if you're a curio vendor...)
• Living in a National Geographic spread is a little surreal. We WERE the stuff you see in the magazine.
• The fact that you can buy a cold Coke and cell phone minutes in the middle of nowhere was a bit disconcerting. But it does give a sense of how the middle of nowhere is connected to the rest of civilization.
• I think the last time I cleaned and cooked live fish was on a Boy Scout campout, but making a family dinner with ingredients we bought at her market and prepared on her paraffin stove while wearing a headlamp was a personal best for me...
• Mooching off of someone else's bucket list isn't so bad.
• Sistership is a pretty special relationship. Planning for Alix to go out the week before the parents was the right idea.
• I'll come clean about the "azungu trap" since it provided for some hysterical laughter behind my back. Because of the severe rains in the country, there are fairly wide and deep ditches along the edges of the roads in Lilongwe. This isn't anything you would see in a developed country since they are rather dangerous to pedestrians. So, during our last evening there, we walked to the restaurant - in the dark. Trying to assume the role of the patriarch, I walked behind the 3 women - especially since Elisabeth needed to lead the way. Well, I really don't see so well in the dark, and there's a lot of crazy drivers, and the thud they heard was me landing in the 24" deep ditch, with my head and arms outstretched on the road, awaiting the oncoming traffic. I took my time cleaning off the blood in the men's room at dinner so they had some time to compose themselves. Naturally they all wanted to hold my hand on the walk back.
• Running isn't practical in Malawi or Zambia - something about being mistaken as "dinner" put a damper on the training. I got over that...
• It was amazing to see how far a few dollars will go with the right kind of direction. The AYID community center Elisabeth is helping to get built in Kanyangale was incredible. It's the first building in this little fishing village on Lake Malawi to have an "iron roof". Seeing how the village has come together to build the structure, and to meet the villagers and their chief - and be honored quests was pretty special. And now we have the "Benoit Family Library" - a room in the community center for this village that has no school. The building is paid for, but we donated some money to furnish the library. And then I started thinking that others might want to make a small contribution to endear themselves to the family library. Perhaps a trip to Lilongwe to get books from the free national library system ($5)? Small table ($10)? Lifetime library cards for 10 people ($5)? Paper/supplies ($10)? Let Kathy or myself know if you're interested in supporting the cause.
• And aside from the horrendous air travel (Ethiopian Air is more like a catering company with some salvaged planes...) it really was the ultimate family trip. My love to all...

An Outside Perspective

Mid-vacation Elisabeth said "Alix, you should make a guest entry in my blog. It would give an outside perspective on my life in Africa." At the time this task did not seem to be too difficult. Sure, there are plenty of things to write about and angles to take, but to really sum up the blip in time that was my holiday is near impossible. So, in an effort to pass on a little of my experience here is a taste of what I learned, what I saw, what I did, and what I thought:

• learning to hitchhike, as a standard mode of transport
• I now have an understanding of Malawian transport, in all its glory. Mini buses, AXA buses, hitches... I missed bicycle taxi's, but I think I got a decent education
• learning to be patient with Malawian transport- eventually the mini bus will go, you just have to wait and standing on sack of maize for 6 hours from Elisabeth's site to Khande Beach really isn't that bad. Oh, and if the sheep under your seat on the mini bus kicks, just lift your legs.
• Walking across "the scary bridge" in the Lilongwe market is the best way to go clothes shopping
• There is nothing like a fresh mango or pineapple, even if it is sold to you at an azungu price
• The children are well loved and taken care of
• The sense of community in the villages is remarkable, there are very few homeless people and it seemed as though everyone takes care of everyone.
• I have never heard the phrase "you are most welcome" and "feel free" more, but they were always said with complete sincerity. Still, I always wanted to ask "feel free to do what?"
• When white people multiply in a remote village you are bound to get looks.
• I still have not figured out a use for all of the chitenjes (the colorful cloth the women wear) I bought
• Amayi (mothers) hands are stronger and tougher then an ove-glove, no joke. And their backs and heads and well... they are just strong women
• there are so many people that are willing to work hard, but the bureaucracy and dependence on others prevents a lot from getting done
• only in Malawi will you wake up with a monkey on your porch, brought to you by the neighbors
• Azungu traps (giant ditches on the side of the roads) are dangerous.
• adding too much water-guard to water will make you sicker than just drinking water out of the borehole- I learned that one the hard way.
• I am not sure how Elisabeth handles the little things all the time, like: sexism, dependency issues, her brothers, preventable accidents, lack of funding for the important things (water, electricity for the school), bugs, transportation, living somewhere for over a year and still there are people that beg her for things. Really, she lives there too! She doesn't have running water or electricity either, and I am pretty sure asking for a msweetie or pencil will not help you out in the long run.
• cold cokes and fantas can and will revive you even in the muggiest of weather
• Elisa is one tough cookie
• Malawians often use "L" and "R" interchangeably, making some funny words, like the volunteer Russell who is called Lusser, or in the case of the Neil Diamond classic "Sweet Calorine"
• yes, I have heard a band of Rastas sing "Sweet Calorine" at an Italian restaurant followed by the Beatles "Ret it Be"
• The lodge in Zambia had a pet squirrel, but I think I am the only in the family that thought that it was a good idea
• Sometimes when Elisabeth laughs really hard she sounds a little like a hippo....
• I was a little worried about such a long family vacation because we haven't spent that amount of time together in consecutive days in, well, ever.... but, everything turned out grand. No, really it was fantastic. I don't know why, but I will venture to guess it has something to do with months of mental preparation Elisabeth put us through
• I don't like nsima, I don't care how good the relish is, the nsima is yucky.
• That isn't fair- it doesn't really have a taste but you smack it around in your mouth and it does nothing but gum up and never go down.
• I could never finish a plate a of food, no matter how hungry I was. I am pretty sure 5 cups of cooked rice is more than one serving, but my inability to finish will prevent me from being a true Malawian.
• purchasing food at a restaurant (note: the term "restaurant" is used VERY loosely, really it is someplace that *may* serve food at some time) is often a timely ordeal. Don't wait until you are really hungry in case they take an hour or three. And have a back up in case they don't have what you want or don't feel like cooking it
• cooking over hot coals is rewarding
• you can bake over the coals, I managed a chocolate cake, but other talented volunteers created cinnamon rolls, mango crisp, and banana bread

So, there it is- a general overview of some of that I learned. If I think of other really important things I will add on, but for now this is it. There is no way to put into words all that I will take away from this adventure, but there is no doubt that it will stay with me forever. I want to thank all of the volunteers I met, you are awesome. Keep being rockstars. Elisabeth, you are the greatest "man-woman" sister in the world and I am super proud of all you are doing. I know you question the impact you are making, but you are showing villages that with hard work and follow through things can get done.

Keep an eye out for an outside perspective Abambo (daddy) version, coming soon...

Alix

(Alice, little Elisa)

National Lampoon has nothing on the Benoits...

The family came to Malawi, my sister for three weeks and my parents for two. It was perfect. Perfect timing, a perfect vacation, I was pretty bummed dropping them off at the airport yesterday. Lucky for them they were able to extend their trip courtesy of Ethiopian Airlines--maybe they can tell you about that later in their guest blogs. : )

The following is a brief summary of their adventures kuno ku Malawi.

1) My sister arrives! She and I are going to have a 'peace corps' experience, taking public transportation, and doing things the Peace Corps way. I discover it is much more fun to ride in the back of a truck with your sister.

2) We visit my house. Alix meets the neighbors, all of them. She has passed the neighbor test and the boys deem her cool enough for a dance party. Positives: We make a delicious taco dinner with guacamole and baked a chocolate cake for dessert (on coals). Negatives: We make a mouse trap that fails two nights in a row.

3) We travel north to visit a friend's house for Christmas. Alix gets the full transport experience as we stand on bags of maize with 120 of our closer friends for 5 hours to Khande.

4) Christmas as Russell's house with 13 other friends. Christmas was spent eating cinnamon rolls (also made on coals), swimming in the lake, and enjoying some really terrible Christmas music. Traditional? No. Memorable? Absolutely.

5) The day after Christmas we travel back to my site via a hitch that gets a flat tire and a mini bus whereby I am attacked by a sheep traveling under my seat.

6) We pick up our parents. And our car. Life is good.

7) The first night is spent at Senga Bay at a beautiful resort with a pool and air conditioning and room service. Clearly, I have never been here before, but I can get used to this life.

8) We travel to my site. We buy fish, my dad cooks. Christmas presents fall from my parent's suitcases (enough macaroni and cheese and hummus mix to last a long long time).

9) The school prepares a lunch for my family. Lunches in Malawi are always awkward events with lots of speeches and weird silences. My headteacher provides comic relief with his dramatic way with words as he says about my arrival: "when we found out we were receiving a women we were paralyzed with fear, but Elisa has proven herself to be a "woman-man." Gee, thanks.

10) The next day we go to Kanyangale to visit AYID's building. The group welcomes us with songs and dances. They give my parents the best hats in the whole world and name the library after us.

11) Two nights at my house proves to be enough. We spend the next morning working on the map project at school and then head to the Safari lodge in Nkhotakota for a great meal on the lake and a comfortable chalet.

12) On the way to Monkey Bay we stop at Mua Mission to visit the cultural center and learn about different kinds of umm...masks.

13) New Years Eve. Staying a 'rustic lodge' without electricity in Monkey Bay makes it difficult to stay awake through the new year.

14) We travel to Cape Maclear to try and beg for a place to sleep. One night at the 'rustic lodge' was enough. We happen upon a little lodge which is about an hour ferry boat ride away-and so begins our trip to paradise.

15) Mumbo Island. Paradise. Beautiful tents set up like tree forts fit a maximum of 14 people on the island. We spend the afternoon kayaking and swimming then take the boat out for a sundowner. Delicious food, beautiful scenery, happy 2011 to us.

16) Travel to Lilongwe. Safari the next day!

17) SAFARI in ZAMBIA! We saw tons of giraffe, zebras, elephants, birds, hippos, crocodiles, baboons, monkeys, and leopards (yes, plural and one about 10 feet away), and lions. The best part was driving in the crazy safari mobile flying through the bush tracking the leopard at night-we all had the most ridiculous smiles on our faces as we were flying off the seats. More delicious food, more cool people, bucket list items being checked off. sweet.

18) Back to Malawi. Time to go home. I couldn't have asked for a better vacation (I hope my family would say the same). I feel refreshed and rejuvenated and full of delicious food. Thank you family.

happy 2011 to you!
loads of love,
elisabeth

Lessons Learned From a Funeral

The youth center for Active Youth in Development was going up too well. In Malawian standards there were no problems-every time I went to the site the youth group, led by a hardworking contractor, were diligently layering bricks, mixing cement and building a youth center. I am so proud of them.

Saturday I went to the site to help work for the day. By help, I mean I carry some bricks, try to mix some cement, and mostly stand in the way. They don't let me do a lot of work, but I like being around and it so cool to see a building come to life.

I was watching the contractor work on Saturday and thought to myself-'we really lucked out.' Not only was his quote the lowest, but the building was going up on schedule. He wasn't showy or chatty-he got the job done.

Sunday morning I got a call at 5:30am saying that he had died. Our contractor got hit by a car on his bicycle after buying some tomatoes at the market. It was dark outside and a truck was trying to overtake another car on the narrow road-the trailer of the truck swung and hit our builder. He died instantly from head trauma. I went to the funeral Sunday morning, the group was really upset but they are moving forward. And that is what I am taking from this death-life goes on. We bought the roofing this morning and the group is looking for a new builder this week. It is not because they are over the death of our friend, it is because they still have to plant the crops, they still have to draw the water, and they still have to build our youth center.

My sister comes tomorrow-it could not be better timed. I am so looking forward to her visit, followed my parents arrival on the 27th. I really need a vacation and some family time.

Happy holidays and cheers to the new year!

loads of love,
e