T.I.A. Moments Continued….
The other day I decided to walk to A.Y.I.D. (the youth group I am working with). Normally I ride my back, but I felt like going for a walk. A.Y.I.D. is in a small fishing village on the lake so fishermen are going in and out constantly on their bicycles. One offered me a ride, I was still pretty far away and the charm of my long walk had long since worn off. I jumped on the rack on the back of his bike and off we went faster than normal but I thought he was just in a hurry to get to the fish. The path started sloping down and we started going even faster…..I see my fishermen motion to his friends to stop and I become slightly concerned. My fishermen starts riding off the path into the bushes, trees, and brush attemping to slow down. I jump off and he gets the bike under control. He then apologies “ sorry madam, I am just missing these”—he points to the brakes.
#2
There are certain heartbreak things I have (sadly) gotten used to—the babies with bloated bellies and orange hair from malnutrition, the wailing nearly every other night announcing yet another funeral, men hobbling with the aid of a stick to walk on their severely twisted leg, teachers justifying AIDS as a form of population control…etc. But the other day my heart hurt because I realized how little control I have over anything. I was on my way to Nkhotakota when an open bed truck flew past-in the back without a guard rail was a lady lying on a green plastic mattress and an IV attached to the cab. For as beautiful as this country is, sometimes it just breaks my heart.
Friday, March 26, 2010
Tuesday, March 16, 2010
Paradise
If you ever join the Peace Corps it is certainly an added bonus to be in a beautiful beautiful country. Two weeks ago Jesi, Alexis, Will and I traveled north during the school holiday to visit Will's site and hike to Livingstonia. We attempted to make it to Will's site on one day but our bus ran out of gas and Jesi's bus (she was coming from Nkhotakota) got stuck in the mud. We camped that night in Muzuzu which also means that had cheeseburgers at the hostel. : ) We made it to Will's site Wednesday afternoon and quickly realized he lives in paradise. He is right on the lake so we got to swim and ate a giant feast at his head teacher's house. Thursday morning we started early (in the rain) with the walk from Will's house to the bottom of the road/trail. It is a 15k hike uphill with over 21 switchbacks and absolutely stunning. We didn't really have plans to stay anywhere (thus is the whimsical schedule (or lack thereof) of traveling in Malawi) but ended up at the Lukwe Permaculture Camp. After a long day of hiking in the rain it seemed totally justifiable to cram into a chalet and enjoy a little vacation. We explored their incredible gardens (they grow everything from coffee, maize, peppers, beans, bananas, etc) and then played in a giant waterfall. We also had the most delicious food (probably because everything comes from the garden). We were the only people there and it was probably one of my favorite nights in Malawi thus far.
Friday morning we wandered around Livingstonia (historically, a really important spot in Malawi but not really much to do...at all) and then found transport down the mountain. We had dinner a the headteachers house where I had my first experience with condolay. Condolay is nsima made from cassava...so think mashed cassava past = the gluiest, thickest substance I have ever eaten. They have to saw it apart, literally. Malawians love it because they "do not feel hunger" after eating. I didn't feel hunger either, I just felt like I had eaten cotton balls with elmers glue.
Saturday Jesi, Alexis, and I attempted to make our way home. It started well and we arrived in Muzuzu around 9:45, plenty of time to make it home. Due to finances (read: we have no money) the most cost effective method of transport is hitching. So we tried...for three hours...in the rain, pushing back our must leave time little by little. Finally, we realized we might have better luck in Nkhata Bay so we begrudgingly paid for transport. Nkhata Bay was equally problematic. We waited another four hours and then remembered something about difficulty traveling down the lakeshore road in the middle of rainy season due to bridges washing out and impassable muddy roads. whoops. Luckily, one of the girls in our group lived about 30k south of Nkhata Bat so we again paid our way to Chinteche. Sunday morning exhausted, dirty, and ready to go home we accepted the fact we have to pay for a bus. I couldn't remember the last time I bathed and after spending the previous nights in a tent, sharing a double bed with 2 other girls, and 3 nights on the floor, my foam mattress and bucket bath never looked so good.
Positives Upon Arrival
* My brothers were waiting for me at the bus depot!
* People remembered me! (I was a little nervous after being gone for 2 weeks)
*I realized I was excited about coming home.
* Everything was still in my house
Not as positive...
*EVERYTHING in my house was moldy. Clothes, tables, dishes, everything. 4 hours of laundry and lots of mopping and scrubbing I think it is okay now..
Back to reality.....
After galavanting across Malawi I, very quickly, was reminded that yes I live in a village in Africa. Last Monday I went to Gertrude's house to meet with her and the Post Test group (the people living with HIV/AIDS). On the way I nearly rode my bike over a crazy green snake. I am not, nor will I ever be a fan of snakes. I am convinced it was a green mamba and like to count this as a brush with death. (maybe that is dramatic, but drama is necessary when dealing with snake encounters) Anyway, Gertrude wasn't there but some of the other ladies were around and it wasn't until after serving me Palla (porridge) that they asked why I was there...feeling kind of silly because I ate their palla and there wasn't really a meeting I just said I would help with the chickens. So we walked into the corral and they handed me a chicken and showed me how to clean its feet (toes? talons? whatever chickens walk on) Yes, I picked chicken poo off of chicken feet. For an hour. T.I.A.
loads of love,
elisabeth
Friday morning we wandered around Livingstonia (historically, a really important spot in Malawi but not really much to do...at all) and then found transport down the mountain. We had dinner a the headteachers house where I had my first experience with condolay. Condolay is nsima made from cassava...so think mashed cassava past = the gluiest, thickest substance I have ever eaten. They have to saw it apart, literally. Malawians love it because they "do not feel hunger" after eating. I didn't feel hunger either, I just felt like I had eaten cotton balls with elmers glue.
Saturday Jesi, Alexis, and I attempted to make our way home. It started well and we arrived in Muzuzu around 9:45, plenty of time to make it home. Due to finances (read: we have no money) the most cost effective method of transport is hitching. So we tried...for three hours...in the rain, pushing back our must leave time little by little. Finally, we realized we might have better luck in Nkhata Bay so we begrudgingly paid for transport. Nkhata Bay was equally problematic. We waited another four hours and then remembered something about difficulty traveling down the lakeshore road in the middle of rainy season due to bridges washing out and impassable muddy roads. whoops. Luckily, one of the girls in our group lived about 30k south of Nkhata Bat so we again paid our way to Chinteche. Sunday morning exhausted, dirty, and ready to go home we accepted the fact we have to pay for a bus. I couldn't remember the last time I bathed and after spending the previous nights in a tent, sharing a double bed with 2 other girls, and 3 nights on the floor, my foam mattress and bucket bath never looked so good.
Positives Upon Arrival
* My brothers were waiting for me at the bus depot!
* People remembered me! (I was a little nervous after being gone for 2 weeks)
*I realized I was excited about coming home.
* Everything was still in my house
Not as positive...
*EVERYTHING in my house was moldy. Clothes, tables, dishes, everything. 4 hours of laundry and lots of mopping and scrubbing I think it is okay now..
Back to reality.....
After galavanting across Malawi I, very quickly, was reminded that yes I live in a village in Africa. Last Monday I went to Gertrude's house to meet with her and the Post Test group (the people living with HIV/AIDS). On the way I nearly rode my bike over a crazy green snake. I am not, nor will I ever be a fan of snakes. I am convinced it was a green mamba and like to count this as a brush with death. (maybe that is dramatic, but drama is necessary when dealing with snake encounters) Anyway, Gertrude wasn't there but some of the other ladies were around and it wasn't until after serving me Palla (porridge) that they asked why I was there...feeling kind of silly because I ate their palla and there wasn't really a meeting I just said I would help with the chickens. So we walked into the corral and they handed me a chicken and showed me how to clean its feet (toes? talons? whatever chickens walk on) Yes, I picked chicken poo off of chicken feet. For an hour. T.I.A.
loads of love,
elisabeth
Sunday, February 28, 2010
How is your life?
Malawians really love to greet people. everyone. all the time. They often follow up the greeting with the question, "how is your life?" That seems like a pretty loaded question, but I feel like I can honestly answer "my life is good." We just finished our Interim Service Training (IST) in Dedza and now I am hanging out in Lilongwe to do some work and then heading north on Tuesday with Will, Jesi, and Alexis to visit Will's site and hike around Livingstonia. I'm pretty jazzed.
IST was awesome. Once again I am so thankful for the amazing people in our group. We have people starting women's groups, planting tree nurseries, and turning into amazing teachers. Plus, they are just generally really cool. We bonded over mattress diving (yes, as it sounds. we took the extra mattresses and piled them into our living room area. we proceeded to run and jump onto the mattresses for a good 4 hours. yes, we are all over 22) , students names (McVicious, Mavoto Madzi (problem water)), and the general awkward, random, and ridiculous things that happen when you put an American in a Malawian village. Of course, we had legitimate sessions on medical stuff, security stuff, grant writing, permaculture, and technical sessions. We also started our planning for Camp Sky which is a education sector tradition. This year yours truly is the director which is a totally overwhelming and exciting. It is a 10 day camp for the top students in the volunteers schools. It is primarily an academic camp for the students to prepare for the MSCE (the big test when they finish secondary school) but we are also going to do cool workshops about composting, sustainable agriculture, writer's workshops, knitting and sewing, and other IGAs. Camp isn't camp without capture the flag so we will definitely have other fun games, dances, talent shows, and silly camp activities. It is going to be a big task, but I can't wait.
The new environment volunteers arrived today which means we are no longer the newest volunteers in country. It is a good feeling. As much as I as I am enjoying my life it is comforting to know that Peace Corps is a revolving of people coming and going.
If you or anyone you know has a contact with Madonna please let me know, maybe she wants to sponsor our camp! She has a thing for Malawi...it's worth a try. : )
loads of love,
elisabeth
IST was awesome. Once again I am so thankful for the amazing people in our group. We have people starting women's groups, planting tree nurseries, and turning into amazing teachers. Plus, they are just generally really cool. We bonded over mattress diving (yes, as it sounds. we took the extra mattresses and piled them into our living room area. we proceeded to run and jump onto the mattresses for a good 4 hours. yes, we are all over 22) , students names (McVicious, Mavoto Madzi (problem water)), and the general awkward, random, and ridiculous things that happen when you put an American in a Malawian village. Of course, we had legitimate sessions on medical stuff, security stuff, grant writing, permaculture, and technical sessions. We also started our planning for Camp Sky which is a education sector tradition. This year yours truly is the director which is a totally overwhelming and exciting. It is a 10 day camp for the top students in the volunteers schools. It is primarily an academic camp for the students to prepare for the MSCE (the big test when they finish secondary school) but we are also going to do cool workshops about composting, sustainable agriculture, writer's workshops, knitting and sewing, and other IGAs. Camp isn't camp without capture the flag so we will definitely have other fun games, dances, talent shows, and silly camp activities. It is going to be a big task, but I can't wait.
The new environment volunteers arrived today which means we are no longer the newest volunteers in country. It is a good feeling. As much as I as I am enjoying my life it is comforting to know that Peace Corps is a revolving of people coming and going.
If you or anyone you know has a contact with Madonna please let me know, maybe she wants to sponsor our camp! She has a thing for Malawi...it's worth a try. : )
loads of love,
elisabeth
Saturday, February 27, 2010
IST, Already?
**Note: I wrote this before IST but wasn't able to update...better late than never!
Next week we are traveling back to Dedza for IST, our training that comes after three months at site. I am SO excited to see everyone, to not think about what to cook, to climb the mountain, and generally have more social contact than I have had in a while. (unless hanging out with 6 boys under 12 including one who has peed on me twice counts) In so many ways this has been the longest 2.5months of my life, but the learning curve is sharp and I was forced to figure out how to live with some sense of normalcy very quickly or turn into a crazy person. Some days are hard and long and lonely and isolating. Some days are inspiring and encouraging and wonderful. Such is life, I guess.
Pre IST Highlights
1) Crazy Christmas
2) Swimming in Lake Malawi
3) Being Elisa and not Azungu
4) Doing an hour run with 2 little boys (who were barefoot) and them never giving up. Their little feet just kept running and they were smiling and laughing the entire time. I felt like I was in a cheesy Nike commercial.
5) Watching Derrick take his first steps (Dennis still hasn't figured out how to walk)
6) My watermelons and sunflowers are actually growing!
7) Realizing I do enjoy cooking
8) Reading more books than I have in the last 2 years
9) Being excited to come to my home in Malawi after traveling or even being gone for a day
10) running with 25 kids on their way to school
11) Hanging out with Gertrude on her poultry farm for the Positive Living (people living with HIV/AIDS) groups. She is one of the most amazing women I have ever met.
12) Charity trying to teach me how to scale and clean a fish-well, I think it was a highlight for her...
13) Totally wiping out in front of the entire school whilst trying to show off my cool soccer moves...not really a highlight but a memorable moment nonetheless
14) Realizing that being here is enough, things always happen for a reason
After IST a small group of us are going hiking in Livingstonia and then it is back home and back to school. After IST means I can also have visitors...if you have ever been considering a trip to Africa you have a host in Malawi. And if you haven't considered a trip to Africa, you should. I'll make you banana pancakes. : )
loads of love,
elisabeth
Next week we are traveling back to Dedza for IST, our training that comes after three months at site. I am SO excited to see everyone, to not think about what to cook, to climb the mountain, and generally have more social contact than I have had in a while. (unless hanging out with 6 boys under 12 including one who has peed on me twice counts) In so many ways this has been the longest 2.5months of my life, but the learning curve is sharp and I was forced to figure out how to live with some sense of normalcy very quickly or turn into a crazy person. Some days are hard and long and lonely and isolating. Some days are inspiring and encouraging and wonderful. Such is life, I guess.
Pre IST Highlights
1) Crazy Christmas
2) Swimming in Lake Malawi
3) Being Elisa and not Azungu
4) Doing an hour run with 2 little boys (who were barefoot) and them never giving up. Their little feet just kept running and they were smiling and laughing the entire time. I felt like I was in a cheesy Nike commercial.
5) Watching Derrick take his first steps (Dennis still hasn't figured out how to walk)
6) My watermelons and sunflowers are actually growing!
7) Realizing I do enjoy cooking
8) Reading more books than I have in the last 2 years
9) Being excited to come to my home in Malawi after traveling or even being gone for a day
10) running with 25 kids on their way to school
11) Hanging out with Gertrude on her poultry farm for the Positive Living (people living with HIV/AIDS) groups. She is one of the most amazing women I have ever met.
12) Charity trying to teach me how to scale and clean a fish-well, I think it was a highlight for her...
13) Totally wiping out in front of the entire school whilst trying to show off my cool soccer moves...not really a highlight but a memorable moment nonetheless
14) Realizing that being here is enough, things always happen for a reason
After IST a small group of us are going hiking in Livingstonia and then it is back home and back to school. After IST means I can also have visitors...if you have ever been considering a trip to Africa you have a host in Malawi. And if you haven't considered a trip to Africa, you should. I'll make you banana pancakes. : )
loads of love,
elisabeth
Monday, February 8, 2010
Workshop #1 and Other Misc. Activities
Lesson Planning Workshop
My primary job is to offer workshops for the 6 secondary schools in my cluster. I held the first one last Friday on lesson planning. Overall, I think it went pretty well. To be sure, I have listed the positives and negatives as follows:
Positives:
1) One representative came from each school! (though one was 2.5 hours late but who is counting?)
2) I have never seen Malawian men so giddy as when they were matching up math facts as a race-hilarious!
3) They asked legitimate questions (and some ridiculous ones) but they were genuinely interested!
4) At the end they actually went to the teachers room to get books to write a five-step lesson plan! They were using active strategies, using resource books, and wrote REAL lesson plans!
Negatives:
1) We held the workshop at the head cluster school--the headteacher was supposed to reserve the teacher development center but as I was setting up 15 guys came in for a red cross meeting. whoops, guess he forgot.
2) I have visited all but one of my schools because it is SO far away (I am actually not really sure where it is...) anyway, their representative walks in and says "you are just a stranger to me." yikes, nice to meet you too.
3) I am not sure these lessons will be implemented into the classroom....baby steps.
I am Teaching!
Wahoo! I have been wanting to teach but it is difficult with traveling for school visits so my headteacher is letting me teach 2 days a week. I am teaching English to form 3 and Life Skills to form 1. I really love teaching the form 3 class, but form 1 can barely speak basic conversational English (secondary school in Malawi is supposed to be taught entirely in English). The first lesson was on self esteem. Imagine trying to learn about why self esteem is important in Greek--yeah, it was like that for the students.
A.Y.I.D.
Active Youth In Development--This is is a youth group I have been working with in a small village about 20 minute bike ride away. They named me their "patron" (technicalities) and I am really excited about working with them because they are super enthusiastic and ambitious. Last week we had a composting workshop (thanks to Sarah and Austin my environment volunteer neighbors!) The fields in Malawi are totally depleted of nutrients because they constantly grow maize and burn the fields, then they have to spend tons of money on expensive fertilizer with lots of nitrogen which runs off into the lake, etc etc...Now, they are planning on doing more workshops with the farmers to teach them the stuff they learned! This week we are having a speaker come from the local health center. They have some big goals and I am trying to keep mine realistic but it is so refreshing to work with an enthusiastic group.
I think that is all for now...I love hearing from you! Please keep the letters/emails coming! I miss and love you all!
loads of love,
elisabeth
My primary job is to offer workshops for the 6 secondary schools in my cluster. I held the first one last Friday on lesson planning. Overall, I think it went pretty well. To be sure, I have listed the positives and negatives as follows:
Positives:
1) One representative came from each school! (though one was 2.5 hours late but who is counting?)
2) I have never seen Malawian men so giddy as when they were matching up math facts as a race-hilarious!
3) They asked legitimate questions (and some ridiculous ones) but they were genuinely interested!
4) At the end they actually went to the teachers room to get books to write a five-step lesson plan! They were using active strategies, using resource books, and wrote REAL lesson plans!
Negatives:
1) We held the workshop at the head cluster school--the headteacher was supposed to reserve the teacher development center but as I was setting up 15 guys came in for a red cross meeting. whoops, guess he forgot.
2) I have visited all but one of my schools because it is SO far away (I am actually not really sure where it is...) anyway, their representative walks in and says "you are just a stranger to me." yikes, nice to meet you too.
3) I am not sure these lessons will be implemented into the classroom....baby steps.
I am Teaching!
Wahoo! I have been wanting to teach but it is difficult with traveling for school visits so my headteacher is letting me teach 2 days a week. I am teaching English to form 3 and Life Skills to form 1. I really love teaching the form 3 class, but form 1 can barely speak basic conversational English (secondary school in Malawi is supposed to be taught entirely in English). The first lesson was on self esteem. Imagine trying to learn about why self esteem is important in Greek--yeah, it was like that for the students.
A.Y.I.D.
Active Youth In Development--This is is a youth group I have been working with in a small village about 20 minute bike ride away. They named me their "patron" (technicalities) and I am really excited about working with them because they are super enthusiastic and ambitious. Last week we had a composting workshop (thanks to Sarah and Austin my environment volunteer neighbors!) The fields in Malawi are totally depleted of nutrients because they constantly grow maize and burn the fields, then they have to spend tons of money on expensive fertilizer with lots of nitrogen which runs off into the lake, etc etc...Now, they are planning on doing more workshops with the farmers to teach them the stuff they learned! This week we are having a speaker come from the local health center. They have some big goals and I am trying to keep mine realistic but it is so refreshing to work with an enthusiastic group.
I think that is all for now...I love hearing from you! Please keep the letters/emails coming! I miss and love you all!
loads of love,
elisabeth
Monday, February 1, 2010
Pictures!
Just a note to say I have uploaded some photos on facebook. If we are facebook friends you probably already know that and if we aren't facebook friends I think you can still look at my pictures. : )
loads of love,
elisabeth
loads of love,
elisabeth
Friday, January 29, 2010
Everything is Relative
Recently, I have been struggling with the idea that I am not being effective, that I am just killing time and hanging out. I attend meetings and visit schools, but I haven't done anything substantial or tangible. Of course, things in Africa take time and this is perfectly normal but it was still starting to bother me. Patience is a funny thing and just as these thoughts were starting to bum me out a little a little boy reminded me everything is relative.
So, for background, Malawi is a very male dominated society. Women are supposed to be at home cooking and taking care of the family. I am the only female at my school and one of three females in all of my cluster schools. (there are 6 schools).
Last Friday I had a meeting with all of the headteachers in a building next to the primary school. School is a very loose term in this case-there are hundreds of kids running around, few teachers, and even fewer resources. As I was waiting for the Heads to arrive I started doing an impromptu lesson on numbers and letters with the 50+ children who decided watching the white lady was more important than sitting in a classroom. (also, I am not sure where the teachers were, in any case lots of kids running around at "school") One of my schools just received a female headteacher (included in the 3 females)-she was the first to arrive and asked if I knew what this young boy in the front was saying to the little girl next to him. I said no so she explained, he was saying if you stay in school and work hard you can be like Madam Elisa. So I haven't built anything or saved the world and the majority of my time is spent reading and playing with my neighbors. But, maybe one day there will be more madams in Malawi and that is a good thing.
So, for background, Malawi is a very male dominated society. Women are supposed to be at home cooking and taking care of the family. I am the only female at my school and one of three females in all of my cluster schools. (there are 6 schools).
Last Friday I had a meeting with all of the headteachers in a building next to the primary school. School is a very loose term in this case-there are hundreds of kids running around, few teachers, and even fewer resources. As I was waiting for the Heads to arrive I started doing an impromptu lesson on numbers and letters with the 50+ children who decided watching the white lady was more important than sitting in a classroom. (also, I am not sure where the teachers were, in any case lots of kids running around at "school") One of my schools just received a female headteacher (included in the 3 females)-she was the first to arrive and asked if I knew what this young boy in the front was saying to the little girl next to him. I said no so she explained, he was saying if you stay in school and work hard you can be like Madam Elisa. So I haven't built anything or saved the world and the majority of my time is spent reading and playing with my neighbors. But, maybe one day there will be more madams in Malawi and that is a good thing.
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